What are the technical theories of professional perfumery?

Three value theory

Fragrance: 1. Any substance that has an odor is a fragrance; 2. A substance that has an odor that is used to formulate a flavor.

Flavor: a mixture of 2 or more fragrances.
Perfume: flavor plus alcohol formulated.

I. Fragrance
(A) imitation incense
Sample dipped in the smell of paper after the segment sniffing, half an hour to smell is the head of incense; 0.5-4 hours to smell is the body odor; 4 hours after the smell is the base of incense. Each section can guess a few kinds of spices, estimate the amount of how much to write on the paper, all written after the start of blending, after dozens of changes in the formula after the aroma close to the original.

With gas chromatography analysis method, the first hit chromatography, according to the “percentage of the normalization method” to get the data, against the “retention schedule of various spices” or mass spectrometry data to guess what each peak may be what spices, after guessing the test mix.

After the test preparation of the sample to be evenly dissolved to play the chromatogram, compared with the imitation sample chromatogram and data table, to find the gap between the increase or decrease in the amount of each spice, until the sample and the imitation of the sample is close to the preparation of the sample.

Generally are two methods used at the same time, imitation fragrance efficiency can be improved.

(B) the creation of incense
1, the creation of incense motives:
(1) found in the process of imitation incense, resulting in the desire to create incense;
(2) to get a new type of spice, try to develop a new type of flavor;
(3) see some of the spice flavor articles, some words lead to a new idea of creating incense;
(4) The user or salesman’s idea of creating a fragrance, bringing the “try it” mentality;
(5) Aromatherapy use of compound essential oils.

2, the process of creating incense:
Determine the “theme”: the aroma of a spice can sometimes be used as a theme, more usually several main spices to form a more unique aroma to the theme of this group of aroma. After the theme is determined, it is modified to make the aroma more rounded and pleasant. Finally adjust the formula, so that the overall balance of the aroma (mainly the head of incense and base fragrance spices plus or minus, so that the matching of the aroma will not be too dull or increase the persistence of the fragrance).

3, two styles of perfumery:
(1) “Capture the inspiration method” – slowly conceptualize, slowly blend, “inspiration” to do more experiments, no “inspiration “when less to do or stop.
(2) “crazy work method” – a day to mix 20 flavors, there is an idea on the allocation of several flavors, and finally a large number of “shot”, leaving only a few with a “hope”. “Hope” to the evaluation of incense group evaluation of incense.

“Crazy work method” is currently more popular ‘to create incense’ work method, the computer is the most suitable for this work method, in order to meet some of the basic conditions (including the cost of preparation), the computer can be very quickly formulated a number of formulas for the test. Without the help of a computer, you may have worked hard to create an “ideal” flavor, only to have to do it all over again because the cost is too high, the strength of the aroma is low, or the scent doesn’t last long enough.

Second, three value theory

Significance: Let the ancient art of perfuming to the road of science.

Any discipline, only after the application of mathematics and meet some recognized mathematical laws, people think it is scientific.

Examples: Darwin’s “evolution” and Mendel’s “genetics”.

Three-value theory is the theoretical basis of perfumery, is the main basis for the design of computerized perfumery software, so to learn good perfumery must first learn “three-value theory”.

Since ancient times, the perfumers basically rely on experience, “math” as if the perfumers have no relationship with the perfumers – after mixing a good flavor, counting the percentage of each spice in which the example, only to add, subtract, multiply and divide the four operations, elementary school in the mathematical knowledge learned on the Has been enough.

Mastered the spice flavor “three values” theory of the perfumer is more confident about each perfume work, more able to adjust the satisfactory also satisfied with their own flavor.

Everything in the world, as long as it becomes a commodity, we will always give it some data to describe its size, quality, performance, etc., but only the “fragrance” – including spices and flavors the most headaches, elusive, people have long been able to use only extremely vague terms to describe They are: aroma “more” good, the intensity of the aroma “more” big, stay “more” long-lasting, and so on. Speaking of people struggle to listen to people also struggle to listen to the last still can not hear what the specific content.

Third, more than the strong value of incense

People use the same terminology with other “feeling” in the sense of smell, the threshold – the lowest sniffing concentration – is the first for the evaluation of the strength of the aroma of the spice of the word, although everyone on each Threshold – the minimum olfactory concentration – was the first term used to evaluate the intensity of a fragrance, and although each person’s perception of each fragrance is different, resulting in several different experimental data for a single fragrance, it is still statistically significant. The smaller the threshold of a spice, the greater the intensity of its aroma. The reciprocal of the threshold value is generally considered to be the “aroma intensity value” of the flavor.

It is well known that the aroma intensity of ethyl vanillin is about 3 times stronger than that of vanillin, but in some sources the threshold value of ethyl vanillin is higher than that of vanillin! The threshold value of methyl syncopone in water is 0.002ppb, the threshold value of ethyl syncopone in water is 1.5-100ppb, and the aroma intensity of the two can never be more than 750 times different! Methyl salicylate in water threshold is 40, stigmasterol in water threshold is 64, and the two aroma intensity is generally believed to be more than 10 times the difference! All of these examples show that there is not a certain mathematical relationship between aroma intensity and threshold.

If we artificially determine a value for the aroma intensity of a commonly used single spice, and all other single spices are “compared” to it (the aroma intensity), we can obtain the relative aroma intensity values of various spice monomers. We (in 1995) put forward the phenethyl alcohol as 10, other monomer spices are compared with a set of data, called “incense than the strong value”, which is the spice flavor “three values” of the first “value “.

A variety of commonly used spices than the strong value of the fragrance and the other two “values” (retention value, the value of the fragrance products) are listed in the “perfumery” and “daily necessities fragrance” and other spices and flavors of the book “commonly used fragrances three value table”, easy to access to get.

Fragrance than the strong value of the fragrance can be used to calculate the strong value of the spice and the formula, the strong value of the fragrance than the strong value as follows

(50 × 25 + 10 × 100 + 10 × 250 + 10 × 10 + 10 × 2 + 4 × 5 + 1 × 600 + 5 × 160) ÷ 100 = 62.90.

Aroma than the strong value of the application is very wide, for the use of incense manufacturers, the most important point is that you can intuitively know to buy or ready to buy the flavor “aroma intensity” how much, because the “aroma intensity” is related to the dosage of the flavor, which directly affects the preparation of the Cost. For example, the preparation of a shampoo shampoo, the original use of a jasmine flavor, aroma than the strong value of 100, add the amount of 0.5%, and now want to change to another kind of flavor, aroma than the strong value of 125, it is clear that as long as the addition of 0.4% on the line.

As we all know, the purpose of adding fragrance is: cover odor (cover odor), endowed with fragrance. Unscented semi-finished products, raw materials, there are many odors, to cover these “odor”, of course, the intensity of the aroma to be greater. If you can get these raw materials than the strong value of the information, through the calculation can be estimated at least how many flavors to “cover”.

Generally have to rely on their own experiments to get the information, the simplest way is to use a known value of the fragrance than the strength of the flavor added to the semi-finished products without fragrance, to find out at least how much flavor to “cover” the “odor”, and indirectly derive the semi-finished products of the Indirectly, the value of this semi-finished product is the “aroma ratio”, and the amount of other flavors to be used can be easily calculated.

One of the most obvious example is kerosene (currently the most used solvent aerosol insecticide) fragrance, without “deodorization” of kerosene “aroma than strong value” up to 100 or more, want to use a small amount of flavor to cover up its odor is almost impossible. The kerosene with physical or chemical methods “deodorization” to a certain extent, an aroma than the strong value of 400 flavor added to 0.5% when almost smell the kerosene “odor”, can be calculated that this “deodorized kerosene It can be calculated that this “deodorized kerosene” has an “aroma ratio” equal to or less than 2.

Some fragrance manufacturers like to buy in with the fragrance of the “second flavor” to mix their own reuse, in the absence of mastery of certain know-how in fact, it is difficult to mix a high level of “work”. Here to provide you with a very useful experimental techniques: the use of the golden section method! Specific approach is: let the two flavors of the “calculated aroma than the strong value” ratio is equal to 0.618: 0.382 = 1.618 or 0.382: 0.618 = 0.618. Below is an example:

There is a rose flavor (A) aroma than the strong value of 150, a sandalwood flavor (B) aroma than the strong value of 120, such as according to A: B = 56.4: 43.6 (56.4 × 150: 43.6 × 120 = 8460: 5232 = 1.617) or A: B = 33.1: 66.9 (33.1 × 150: 66.9 × 120 = 4965: 8028 = 0.618) of the proportion of the preparation will get very good results, the former can be called “rose sandalwood flavor”, the latter can be called “sandalwood rose flavor”.

Aroma than the strong value of the English letter “B” said.

Fourth, the retention value
A spice or an essential oil to stay a long time soon is the perfumer and fragrance manufacturers are particularly concerned about the problem. For perfumers, the mixing of each flavor should be used “head”, “body”, “base” three major categories of spices, that is to say, long-lasting and long-lasting fragrance spices should be used! And the dosage should be scientific, so that the matching of the fragrance can be evenly distributed, balanced and harmonious.

For manufacturers of fragrance, I hope that the purchase of the fragrance to join their products can withstand warehouse storage, transportation, counter to be sold after a long time “test” to the hands of the user is still pleasantly fragrant, some (such as shampoo, body wash, soap, laundry detergent) and even require the use of a certain amount of residue in the body or object on the Fragrance.

Park but (poucher) in 1954 published 330 kinds of spices “volatile schedule”, the aroma of less than a day on the smell out of the spice coefficient is set at 1, 100 days and 100 days after the smell out of the coefficient is set at 100, the other spice “coefficient The “coefficient” of other fragrances is the number of days of its fragrance.

We have improved this experiment by removing the spices which are not commonly used, correcting some data and adding the spices which are commonly used now, totaling more than 4000 kinds of spices, and the “sniffing coefficient” (that is, the number of days of fragrance retention) is called “fragrance retention value”, which is the “three values of commonly used spices”, and the “three values of commonly used spices”. One of the columns in the “Three Values of Commonly Used Fragrances Table” is the retention value data of various fragrances. According to these data can be calculated flavor retention value, the calculation method is the same as the “aroma than the strong value” of the algorithm.

Now take a jasmine flavor example:

The retention value of this flavor is
(5 × 40 + 10 × 19 + 100 × 10 + 100 × 10 + 80 × 5 + 22 × 1 + 14 × 10 + 100 × 5) ÷ 100 = 34.52.

This value should be more accurately called “calculated retention value”, because it has a gap with the actual number of days of retention, which is due to a variety of fragrances will be mixed with each other after the chemical reaction to produce a longer lasting substance. In fact, the actual number of days of perfume flavor is almost always more than 100, while the “calculated retention value” is impossible to reach 100.

The use of the retention values of fragrances and the calculated retention values of flavors is also very versatile. The perfumer can use the retention value of various spices to predict the calculated retention value of the flavors, if necessary, add or subtract some of the larger retention value of the spices to make the flavors stay in a desired range of time.

Fragrance manufacturers in the purchase of flavors, the first to the flavor factory to ask the calculated retention value of the flavor is in line with the requirements of their own fragrance is very necessary. The calculated retention value is also very important in “secondary flavoring” – if you want a better retention, use more of the flavor with a larger calculated retention value.

Need to draw attention to: calculated retention value is too large flavor often stagnant aroma, not through the hair, especially some low-grade flavor is more so.

Retention value is denoted by the letter “L”.

Fifth, the value of incense
Fragrance was originally no “taste”, such as indole, directly smelled like chicken manure like the stench, diluted to less than 1% of the concentration of jasmine-like aroma! In fact, most of the spices directly smell the aroma is not good, after dilution is not necessarily good.

The aroma of the various spices is blended into a flavor to play its role, improper use not only can not play a role, sometimes it will destroy the overall aroma! Therefore, if you want to give each spice a “taste value”, can only be placed in an aroma range to examine its “performance”, for example, benzyl acetate are generally used to blend jasmine flavor use, we will see if it is like jasmine, very much like it! “Score” to give some higher, not quite like then ‘score’ to give some lower. The concept of “fragrance value” was created along these lines.

A variety of spices are also listed in the “commonly used spices three value table”. It is necessary to point out that: the table “fragrance value” refers to the spice in the deployment of flavorings using its “main aroma” (i.e., the “ABC table of smell” inside the various spices of the largest numerical value of the “aroma”). Aroma) when the “taste value”, if the blend of flavor is used in its “secondary aroma”, then you have to give it another “aroma value” according to the fragrance of the spice. For example, benzyl acetate is used in the preparation of jasmine flavor value is 80, while used in the preparation of fruit flavors (benzyl acetate has a fruit aroma), “flavor value” can only be counted as 10-30.

The “fragrance value” of the flavor can be calculated according to the fragrance value and dosage ratio of each spice in the formula, and the calculation method is the same as that of the aroma than the strong value and the retention value, and the calculated fragrance value is called the “calculated fragrance value”, which is the same as the “actual fragrance value” (the actual fragrance value). The calculated fragrance value is called “calculated fragrance value”, which is different from the “actual fragrance value” (the fragrance is evaluated and scored by the public, and the average value is taken). Blending a flavor, if its actual flavor value is less than the calculated flavor value, it can be considered that the blending is a failure; the more the actual flavor value exceeds the calculated flavor value, the more successful the blending will be.

The so-called “flavoring” is to “greatly improve the flavor value of the spice”.

Fragrance manufacturers to the flavor manufacturer to buy flavor, you can ask the latter to provide the calculated flavor value of the flavor, and then organize a temporary “evaluation team” to the flavor scoring, is the so-called “actual flavor value” (the highest score of 100, the lowest score of 0), if the actual flavor value exceeds the calculated flavor value, the more successful the flavor is. ), if the actual fragrance value exceeds the calculated value by a lot, the flavor should be more in line with their own requirements.

Fragrance value is denoted by the letter “P”.

Sixth, the comprehensive evaluation of the practical value of spices and flavors

Previously mentioned three values of spices and flavors, each “value” is only a reflection of a spice or a flavor of an aspect of the three values put together in order to reflect the overall profile of the spice or flavor. For example, a rose flavor of the aroma than the strong value of 150, calculated retention value is 60, calculated the value of the fragrance is 50, we feel that this flavor “is not bad”, the intensity of the aroma is not small, better retention of the aroma, the aroma can be, but at the same time to remember the three data is not easy. Multiply the three data B x L x P = 150 x 60 x 50 = 450,000
This number is too big, divide it by 1000
B×L×P/1000=150×60×50/100=450
Let’s define
B×L×P/1000=Z

Z for spices, flavors, “comprehensive evaluation score”, referred to as “comprehensive score”, such as the above rose flavor of the comprehensive score of 450, which is used to calculate the value of its fragrance than the strong value, the value of the calculated retention of fragrance, calculated value of the fragrance, if it is not the actual value of the fragrance 50, but If its actual fragrance value is not 50, but 60, then its overall score should be 150×60×60/1000=540.

The sales price of this flavor (according to the current market price) 540 yuan / kg more moderate, such as higher than 540 yuan / kg is too expensive, less than 540 yuan / kg is cheap.

“Three commonly used spices table” has listed a variety of commonly used spices through the three values calculated by the ‘composite score’, the perfumer can be based on the data in this table on a variety of spices for evaluation, comparison, selection, the new spices can be determined by their own three values, calculate their comprehensive Score to fill in.

Odor ABC

Check the table:

Diacetal aroma: 60% fruity, 10% green, 30% narcotic odor;

Bornyl acetate aroma: 10% cold, 40% herbal, 50% pine;

Aroma of isobornyl acetate: 2% cold aroma, 30% herbal aroma, 65% pine aroma, 3% soil aroma.

The “ABC’s of odor” of a flavor can be calculated.

For example, one of the flavors – “Oriental” – is calculated as follows

A2H1M5Q20R10S2U2V2W52X4

It means that its aroma is made up of 2% fatty, 1% herbal, 5% lily of the valley, 20% ointment, 10% rose, 2% spice, 2% vanilla, 52% wood and 4% musk.

Chaos math, fractals and perfumery

Chaos
Chaos is a general term for the random behavior exhibited by deterministic systems, which is rooted in nonlinear interactions. A “deterministic system” is one in which the mathematical model describing the system is a completely deterministic equation that does not contain any random elements.

The most common form of motion in nature is often neither completely deterministic nor completely random; this is chaos.

Second, fractal structure
(1) Structures with infinite finesse;
(2) Proportional self-similarity;
(3) Generally its fractional dimension is greater than its topological dimension;
(4) Can be defined by very simple methods and generated by recursion, iteration, etc..
Everyday we see snowflakes, clouds, smoke, etc. all have fractal structure. We can easily imagine that “a cloud of aroma” should also have a fractal structure.

Strange attractor
“Strange attractors are stable attractors with a fractal structure.
Artists use the theory of “strange attractor” and the theory of “fractal structure” to explain their work: musicians regard a beautiful melody as a “strange attractor”, and can compose an infinite number of pieces; painters regard a beautiful melody as a “strange attractor”, and can compose an infinite number of pieces; painters regard a beautiful melody as a “strange attractor”, and can compose an infinite number of pieces. A musician sees a beautiful melody as a “strange attractor” and can compose an infinite number of pieces of music; a painter sees a beautiful shape (e.g., a human body, a flower) as a “strange attractor” – it can also create an infinite number of works of art.

The musician strives to “find” a melody that has not been “discovered” by others; the perfumer tries his best to “find” a “cloud of the most pleasant fragrance”. The perfumer tries his best to “find” the “most pleasant aroma”, that is, the “strange attraction” that has not been “discovered” by the predecessor.

Fourth, the fractal dimension
Also known as fractal dimension or fractional dimension, usually expressed as a fraction or a number with a decimal point. For a long time people are accustomed to the point defined as zero-dimensional, straight line for one-dimensional, two-dimensional plane, space for three-dimensional.

Einstein’s introduction of the time dimension in the theory of relativity resulted in a four-dimensional space-time. Giving multiple dimensions to a given problem creates a higher dimensional space, but all are integer dimensions.

In mathematics, stretching, compressing, and distorting geometric objects in Euclidean space continuously and with the same number of dimensions is called the topological dimension.

Mathematician Hausdoff (Hausdoff) in 1919 introduced the concept of continuous space, that is, the space dimension is continuously variable, it can be an integer or a fraction, called the Hausdoff dimension, denoted as Df .
Obviously, Df is a fraction in general.

The fractional dimension formula for aroma:
D = (ln K) / (lnL)
Where: D – the dimension of the fractal
K – the sum of the contribution of all the fragrances to the theme aroma
L – the number of fragrances

In general, the closer the fractal dimension is to 1, the more prominent the theme aroma of the flavor is.
An actual formulation of a jasmine flavor was formulated as follows:
Benzyl acetate 50
Methylhexyl cinnamal 40
Jasmine oil 10

Check the “spice odor ABC table”, benzyl acetate has 70% of the jasmine aroma, methylhexyl cinnamon aldehyde has 80% of the jasmine aroma, jasmine oil has 60% of the jasmine aroma, they are formulated on the average jasmine flavor aroma contribution rate of 0.50 × 0.70 + 0.40 × 0.80 + 0.10 × 0.60 = 0.73
K=3×0.73=2.19

Therefore, the sub-dimension of the aroma of this jasmine flavor theme
D02=(ln2.19)/(ln3)≈0.7135